Cricut Calibration problems - sensors not reading cut marks

Happy Cricut cutting

You have probably come here because you have Cricut Calibration problems - sensors are not reading cut marks.

So by the time you have got here you might have already followed the troubleshooting advice on the Cricut page and the MANY tutorials/help videos from Cricut and other third party lovelies on youtube etc.

In case you haven't yet, try:

Cricut calibration tutorial
Cricut troubleshooting
Youtube help: Charming Lotus and Jenuine Crafts

The common things to try are the following....

• Print with black and white printer settings
• Print on white paper
• Print on correct sized card (I use A4)
• Check paper clean
• Check mat is clean
• Clean the sensors
• Move sensors (Cricut machine) out from direct sunlight or overhead spotlighting
• Draw over the cut markers with a Sharpie/Black pen (which sounds bonkers but works for some)
• Check print settings are at 100% scale - NOT 'shrink to fit' or 'fit page'
• Change browser - Safari, Explorer, Chrome, Firefox
• Check Firmware is up to date
• Uninstall/reinstall the Cricut plug i from your computer
• Unplug/change USB
• Unplug/change power cable
• Try with another computer

I did all of the above and no avail. I tried the calibration over 15 ties with different variations on the possible issues. The man on Cricut web chat was trying to get me to do them all again, not sure if he really read my descriptions of the errors or the list of solutions I tried, anyway he tried to get me to do them again, before abandoning the chat twice.

So I was giving up, I was in tears, I had wasted the only 3 daylight hours a week I get childfree to work. I then wasted a further hour while I really should have been supervising the kids (I bribed them with donuts and Blaze and the Monster Machine on Netflix). I was buying a Silhouette Cameo. But techie husband suggested we try one last time.

He patiently went through the steps again and I noticed something. The calibration print sheet was printing to the left edge but those I saw on youtube were central, as was the graphic on the calibration guide. I checked my print settings they were all fine, however the print preview showed the markers were positioned to the left.

I tried again, same settings, this time it printed tiny?? this was a one off, the only one is over 17 prints. THIS IS NOT RIGHT. This might just be where we are struggling.

From the pits of my memory I remembered seeing a PDF version of the calibration print sheet on a help page.

I found it, the PDF and the print preview had it positioned in the centre of the page! I printed it, it was central and hey presto it allowed me to calibrate the machine. WTH was that all about? I don't know, I'm going to send this the Cricut and will let you know as and when I hear back from them.

Hope this helps!

and big thanks to The Charming Lotus and Jenuine Crafts

PDF link: http://help.cricut.com/sites/default/files/2016-08/Calibration_1.pdf

I love my Cricut btw - if you are wanting an opinion on it - as a home studio user it is great... could be quicker, could be wireless, would be so much better if the design studio wasn't dependant on an internet connection. The newer version of this model can be used wireless via bluetooth, does have a fast cutting mode (which is raved about by other users) but still needs the internet if you are creating your own designs, which I do.

Messy wall studio pre makeunder - happy Cricut Days

Follow me on Instagram: @clarewaterfall Like my page: Clare Waterfall Pictures Visit my Etsy Shop: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ClareWaterfall

Creating a Repeat Pattern in Photoshop

So there are many ways of making a repeat pattern and here I'll list a few with a little help from some friends (strangers on the internet)

The Define Pattern is a very simple way of creating a repeat pattern (tutorial coming soon), however it does leave rather a grid like, regimented pattern. Great if that is what you are after. If however you want it a bit more organic looking I suggest you follow the tiling method.

This first tutorial from Mel's Brushes explains the mechanics, how the tiling process actually works. The Offset Filter does the tiling automatically for you but it helps if you have an understanding of what and how it is being done.

Tiling - Manually (superb results!)

Tiling with Offset Filter

Experiment with different tile sizes or area selection, here are two versions I did. What effect do these variances have on your pattern?

Larger Tile 600x600

Smaller Tile 125x125

I would suggest you try all of the methods and compare them. What worked best for you in terms of process and results.

Introduction to SketchUp

SketchUp 3D model of my front room... I am planning new storage!

I worked with SketchUp a wee bit during my degree, we did a 3D graphics module (see my attempts here).

3D graphics is rather complex and in that we were doing a little dip into the topic we were introduced to the novice friendly software formerly c/o Google so apologies if I keep referring to it as Google SketchUp (it's now owned by Trimble).

You can download a free version for educational purposes here: http://www.sketchup.com/download

Now, I say this is novice friendly, but it is also used professionally and to great effect here are some picture examples.

© Diego Guerra

c/o SketchUp.com

© Sunil Pant

© Oleomingus

So here is a little introduction to the software, very basics to get you started.

HD version at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WiCCGK86NbM

International Paper Sizes

© Clare Waterfall

Photoshop Blending Modes

A simple technique that can produce some interesting results. I'm demonstrating this to my Level 2 group this afternoon.

Blend Modes

Open an image, here I’m using a high contrast back and white portrait of British recording artist Sophie Ellis Bextor 

(image c/o Galleryhip)

Place a new image on another layer. Copy and paste or File>Place…

I am using a textured Union Jack flag 

(image c/o http://wall.alphacoders.com/big.php?i=218461)

Resize the image, if you want to constraint the proportions hold the shift key. Hit return or the tick button to commit to the changes.

Ensure you have selected the top layer.

Just above the layers is the Blending Mode options drop down list, it is default set to normal. 

This set of blend modes adjust the selected layer to allow parts of the image to become transparent or to allow certain areas to be blended with the layer below.

Texture scaled to fit

There are a number of different blend options. This is Darken.

Blend Mode: Darken

This is Screen

Blend Mode: Screen

This is Divide

Blend Mode: Divide

Lets see what happens when we switch the layers and apply this divide blend mode to the portraits. So firstly, move the portrait to become the top layer.

Move: Portrait to Top

Delete our blank background layer.

Delete: Background Layer

Apply the Divide blend to the portrait (top) layer. Notice the different effect it produces.

Blend Mode: Divide, Portrait on top layer

Now, play with the blend modes. Save four different versions and compare. Ensure you note down what layers were used and what blend modes were applied!

Fab explanation of what/how the blend modes do: http://photoblogstop.com/photoshop/photoshop-blend-modes-explained

Creating a repeated pattern

So we do this in Photoshop, tiling (tutorial coming soon) but here is a great #skillshare video showing how to do it by hand. A great share, thank you Skillshare

https://www.facebook.com/skillshare/videos/1252756628083104/

Papercuts - Framing tips - Superglue

Did you know that superglue is used in forensic investigations? It's true. Husband watches far to many programs on the Crime and Investigation channel, this is how i know this. The fumes of superglue fog up and adhere to blemishes and grease spots on an object and can help lift fingerprints. See here if you want to give it a go.

I also know this from personal experience. I glue most of my pieces with thick superglue and on occasions I have hastily framed a newly finished piece. The result, foggy glass.

Not a disaster as the powder can simply be wiped off with a rag and polished away.

But I would recommend, to save you the bother, leave for at least an hour, overnight if possible before framing your cut.

Producing Papercutting Templates using Photoshop

I am a member of a papercutting forum on facebook and someone recently asked how to produce a template.

Now I don’t use a template per se, well in theory I do, as I cut around the lines that I draw and if I wish to neaten something or duplicate some work I scan in the image to make multiple prints and amendments.  But I don't use the ones that grey out all areas to be cut away.

However, my degree was in Multimedia Technology and I use a variety of design software, so I can explain what I’d do, were I to produce a template.

So, I thought I’d explain how you can use design programmes to create a template.

I won’t make any assumptions about your knowledge of Photoshop so I will address this to a novice, with step by step images.

This is my first big tutorial using screenshots and although I tested the steps, I write it so am not the best test subject. If it is broken somewhere along the way, PLEASE do let me know so I can fix it, I'm supposed to be helping, not confusing!

Start by scanning a sketch into your computer, I am using Brambles.

Open Photoshop and select 'New' to create a new picture. The are in which you work is called a canvas.

Select the size canvas you want, there are presets for International paper (e.g. A4 etc.) If your size isn't in a dropdown simply add your own figures. You can use mm, cm, pixels etc. to customize the size and scale. I would at this stage reccommend that you also name your document (picture/canvas) for saving purposes. Give it a save.

You now want to 'Place' your scanned drawing.

Select the file of your sketch and hit place (highlighted in blue)

You can hit the return key to place the image if you are happy with the placement

You can drag the image around the page manually. You can Transform/adjust the size and scale by dragging the corners. Note: holding the Shift key will constrain the proportions for you.

Hit apply to place on the layer.

Most cutters I know like to cut from behind, so if you want your finished cut to look as it does in the sketch, not a mirror image, you need to flip the image. You will cut into this mirror image. So, using the toolbar at the top, Image > Image Rotation > Flip Canvas Horizontal 

This gives you a mirror image. For the purpose of this tutorial I didn't bother with this but I will for the version that I will be presenting in my gallery and Etsy shop.

You can align and distribute your scanned sketch, in a variety of ways. You can, using the Move Tool or by selecting V on your keyboard access alignment tools.
I want this central. These can be a bit tricky to get your head around at first, I found playing with them helped their functions stick in my noggin...ish.

You need all the layers to do this so select all from the toolbar or Ctrl and A (if PC) or Cmd and A (if Mac)

Using the distribution and alignment icons (see yellow highlighted bar) to centre the item 'Align vertical centres'

Same again for the horizontal centres. You don't have to do this, but have a play to see what these handy little functions can do for you. Save you struggling to line up manually.

The file you placed is a 'Smart Object' and is not directly editable. To allow you to edit/change it, you need to Rasterize it. Don't worry about what that means for the moment, I'll explain all in another post. Using the tool bars - Layer > Rasterize > Smart Object

If you don't want to position with the alignment buttons or just fancy giving an alternative method a try, you can use the marquee tool (shape with dashed lines in sidebar - second from top) select any area that you would like. 

You can cut it

You can then paste it

Note: this will be pasted into a new layer

Select the middle layer (this will be your original file layer)

Delete this layer - se little Rubbish Bin icon highlighted at bottom right of screen. We don't need this layer.

Double click on the background layer - it is currently locked - double clicking unlocks this.

It will give you the option to rename the layer at this point. Now renaming the layers is VERY useful and normally I would hammer home how you have to name everything for the purpose of file organisation. But I will come to that in other posts and this layer already has a logical name but when you double cick it to unlock it, it becomes layer 0. By all means rename if you like.

Practicing what I preach :) Now rename your other layer, Layer 1, double click on the name (see blue highlighted area)

I choose Brambles as this is what I have in this layer, simples. Pick whatever will make you remember what is on that layer, your work, your filing system so use your methods and own logic.

Select everything - Select >All or Ctrl/Cmd A

We now want to adjust the Threshold. Basically the threshold is a limit that determines if a colour in the image is darker than this limit, it will turn black and if it's lighter, it will turn grey. This is a very quick way of getting a high contrast image, getting rid of greys and leaving good old black and white. So using tool bar Image > Adjustments > Threshold

Using the slide scale adjust your image, the higher the threshold, the blacker the image

The lower, the lighter/whiter

This seems good for me, not your value (241 etc. will differ depending on subject so don't just take this value as gospel)

We want to get rid of our white areas. Using the magic wand tool (select from sidebar or hit W) select your whites - this is simply done by clicking with the curser on any of the white area

We want to also select all the whites within the sketch, we can do this be looking for the same/similar colour using Select > Similar. This will look for all areas of white.

Cut this away: Edit > Cut

Now, select your background layer and hide it by clicking on the little eye icon. This keeps the background but we cannot see it.

See? actually we don't do we? :)

Go back to your image layer (Brambles, whatever you named it) select the blacks with the magic wand tool (W)

Select similar colours/shades (just in case our threshold adjustments didn't actually give us true black throughout)

We want to make this white. We could Inverse the whole image to make it a negative, but we are going to fill all those areas in with White. Again this is to safeguard in case we haven;t got the same shade of black throughout. We are using the toolbar Edit > Fill

Select White from the dropdown menu. 

This is what you are left with. *****Now hold it here. *****We'll pick this up shortly but I am going to show you the other method too. Whichever way you use, it will take you to the last area of filling in the background to grey. The areas of your papercut template that you will actually cut away!

Instead of getting rid of the extra white bits and changing the black bits to white... confused? I am.... just select all the areas that aren't black... Magic wand, select black, Select > Inverse. Then Edit > Fill with white.

Select your background layer

Delete your background layer 

You only have one remaining layer. Select >All

Here is where we make the negative image. Image > Adjustments > Invert

Ta Dahhhhh!

We want this background to be a pale grey. We can do this a number of ways. We can turn down the opacity, see the highlighted box above the layer. You can adjust this until it looks good for you. Or... instead of reducing the opacity, you can do the following.

******Come back all those on hold from before!!! You can fill in the background areas with a paint colour. At this stage you will either have a blackground (if followingthe last method) or a translucent background (the grey squared grid) Using your Magic Wand tool (W) hit the black area and Select > Similar

Fill the background, flood this area, with a pot of virtual grey paint. Edit > Fill 

From the dropdown bar select 50% grey

Ta dahhhh... again. Home stretch now!

If you ahve been a good girl/boy and named/ saved your file at the start, you can just Ctrl/Cmd S or File Save. If not, no worries, or if you want to change the file, go to the toolbar File > Save As

Pick the file into which you want this file popping. You can change the file type to .JPG or .PNG or .PDF for simpler transfer to other computers that might not have Photoshop, for example, if you are printing at another location, school, work, college to save your home ink... shhh I didn't say that!!

Lastly, because as a former colleague once noted, I am a tree hugger. I'm not really but I HATE waste. So if you can be minful of your paper consumption it makes for a healthier world for our babies and grandbabies etc. Soooo, when you print there are a few things you can do.

You can print more than one copy on your piece of paper, if room allows, check your dimensions first though!

If, as in this case, an A4 page cannot accommodate 2 of these designs, because you have them at a size for a specific frame, you can move the image by dragging it around in the preview area. This will mean there will be one larger trim area that can hopefully be used on smaller cuts or other craft projects. Be mindful here of print margins!!

Using your weapon of choice, I favour the X-Cut but have used a very nice Lacie and Swan Morton, cut away the grey areas.

So here is my cut. A true seconds entry. I want my sale version to have white leaves with the spines cut away, some details accented and it will be a mirror image of this. A new blog will demonstrate how to select some areas for cutting and others for keeping, but in the meantime please feel free to practice this method.

As I mentioned before, this is my first BIG tutorial using screenshots so it is truly a learning curve for me.

After it goes live and I have a bit more time, I think I shall break it down, one post per method, save the confusion. I'll also resize the screen so there is less clutter for you. Any other suggestion that you can give on how I can improve my tutorials is GREATLY welcomed, be kind I am a Mummy on the edge :) but it will really help me to improve how I produce future tutorials.

Coming soon, video tutorials for those who prefer video.

Thank you for visiting. I am on Instagram, facebook, twitter, Etsy and soon Youtube. Links at the side if you would like to like, follow, say hello or give feed back there or in the comments below.

Thanks again xxxx